Field-Ripened Strawberries

When The Strawberry Ranch stopped growing strawberries a couple years ago, it was almost as if a death had occurred. Maybe not akin to the death of a close loved one, but perhaps that of a former co-worker or acquaintance that you enjoyed running into every so often, and felt a profound sadness when you realized you’d never see them again, even though they weren’t a critical part of your life, they still made your day better when you saw them. Is this too morbid of a metaphor?

The strawberries from The Strawberry Ranch were sublime. This is not an exaggeration. There is no contest between store berries that are picked before they ripen to ensure they can be shipped without too much bruising, and allowing the berries to fully ripen on the plant. I recall one August day at my former place of work, a cube farm mate, T, announced that she was heading over to pick up some strawberries at lunch. Another cube mate, J, began scoffing, asking what could possibly be so great about STRAWBERRIES that she had to drive out of town to get them when she could just buy them at the grocery store. T shook her head. “J,” she said, “you’ll see when I get back.”

When she returned, she placed a couple of ripe berries on his desk. Cries of “OH MY GOD. THIS IS SO GOOD. WHAT IS THIS” could be heard from J’s cubicle. And that, friends, is the story I always think of when I remember the magical natural candy that was produced at The Strawberry Ranch, and why so many of us in Saskatoon and area legitimately mourned when we found out that they were discontinuing their namesake berry. I know The Berry Barn still grows hydroponic strawberries, but whether it’s actually true or not I just don’t believe fruit tastes as good when it’s grown indoors (though I am 100% pro-hydroponic food production, maybe a hypocrite, but let me enjoy this once-per-year indulgence).

This year, I learned of a new grower in the Saskatoon area. Raina’s Organics began selling locally grown, organic strawberries at the Saskatoon Farmers’ Market in early August. I arrived at the Farmers’ Market last Saturday minutes before opening to ensure I could score a container. And while I have to admit that they aren’t quite as good as The Strawberry Ranch (due I think to picking a little less ripe), they are still miles better than anything in a Driscoll’s box from California. We ate them one day with balsamic whipped cream, and another day in homemade strawberry shortcake, which honestly might have been the best thing I ever made, in my life, and I am a very good cook. Here is the recipe, and a photo that my sister took when she made it because I was too excited to even take a photo.

Strawberry Shortcake for Two

Adapted from One Dish Kitchen

Shortcake:

½ cup all purpose flour

1 tbsp granulated sugar

½ tsp baking powder

1/8 tsp baking soda

1/8 tsp salt

2 tbsp coconut oil (solid)

3-4 tbsp buttermilk, kefir, yogurt, or sour cream

Filling:

About ½ cup heavy cream

1 tsp vanilla

About 1 cup sliced strawberries

1 tbsp brown sugar

Method:

Stir the sugar into the strawberries and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes to release juices.

Make the shortcake: Mix all dry ingredients together, and cut in oil with a pastry blender until it looks a bit like oatmeal scattered throughout the dry ingredients. Stir in the liquid until the dough comes together, it should be soft but not sticky. Do not knead. Gently shape into two balls, and flatten slightly, but not too much because you want a nice height. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes.

Heat oven to 400 and bake the cakes on parchment for about 13 minutes.

Beat the cream and vanilla to make whipped cream. Add more cream if the amount looks stingy.

Cool the cakes slightly, then cut in half and fill with strawberries and whipped cream.